The following appeared in:
Foley's Yosemite
Souvenier & Guide
1907

NOTE: "The 1915 Foley's Yosemite Souvenir & Guide" also included is very simular to
this "1907 Foley's Yosemite Souvenir & Guide" - it was updated.



FROM MERGED TO EL PORTAL
The Canyon Route to Yosemite

      From Merced, the "Fountain City," where connections are made with both the Southern Pacific and the Santa Fe roads, to the terminus at El Portal, the "Gateway," 85 miles to the east, in the canyon of the Merced, there is a panoramic succession of varied points of interest that will add ever so much to your visit to that famous place.
      El Portal is 12 ½ miles from the Sentinel Hotel.

A Scenic Monopoly
      Were the canyon of the Merced, whose great walls now echo and re-echo, the whistles of the locomotives, of the least possible interest, this fact should not deter you for one moment from making this trip for above and beyond the many interesting points of the canyon, looms up' that which was the incentive to build the Yosemite Valley Railroad, the place you had in your mind when you bought your ticket - the wonderful, imperial, gorgeous Yosemite Valley, the one place upon earth with a scenic monopoly that harms no one, but is enjoyed by all who seek its shrine. And so when you have added to the trip all the wonders, and beauties and grandeur of the Merced Canyon, you have before you one of the greatest trips of your life. And like many of the thousands who have come before you and endured the necessary hardships of the long stage trips, you will come again and your visits will be more numerous. For it is a fact that at least 75 per cent of Yosemite's visitors leave the valley full of a desire to again re-visit it. They are its best advertisers.

A Trip of Anticipation
      The visitor, en route to Yosemite, will find that one of the most pleasing effects of the canyon route will be anticipation, the unexpected. You cannot get rid of these pleasant phases of the canyon, nor should you try to. They dovetail in and are as much a part of the trip as is El Capitan a part of the Yosemite itself. They are with you at every turn of the winding river, at every old, abandoned mining camp of the other days, at the new life now in the canyon.
      As you pass from one interesting point to another, and they come quite often, though the train is limited to about 20 miles per hour, you wonder just what is coming next. Up ahead in the mist or Alpine glow of the Sierra canyon, looms up a great mountain peak, and you are wondering how the train is going to get by it. Now it is heading for a rocky bluff in front, and you instinctively look for the tunnel. It is not there. At the right moment comes the turn of the grade, and new points and vistas and more wonders of the canyon are opened up ahead. And these pleasant expectations, sensations and disappointments (if the latter may so be used) are duplicated many, many times before El Portal is reached.
      In surveying this route the engineers, in charge of N. C. Ray, wisely hugged closely to the river banks, the track being hut a few feet above high water. In fact much of the rock of the grade was shot into the river, in many cases forming part of the roadbed. And so for nearly 60 miles the railroad track and the Merced River run side by side, this being one of the most pleasing features of the trip.

It Is "Up to the Brag"
      Our first trip through the canyon of the Merced was made during the latter days of the construction of the railroad. We entered it at Merced Falls, in the low foothills of the Sierras, about 30 miles from Merced, with some prejudice and many misgivings. We feared that it would not come "up to the brag," as the immortal Emerson well said while viewing the Yosemite from Inspiration Point. As he found the Yosemite far in excess of all he had ever read or heard so found we the canyon of the Merced.
      In fact the story of the canyon had not, nor can it be, half told.
      And so the train had not gotten far up into the rocky canyon ere we found ourselves, too, a willing convert, and in imagination, we were the Yosemite visitors en route. Then slowly as the train wound its way up the gorge, toward the cast and the High Sierras, there was unfolded to us the beauties, the wonders the ruggedness of the famous canyon of the "River of Mercy," the Merced.

Old, Forgotten Mining Camps
      As your train carries you from point to point you little realize that you are going through one of the great mining districts of the 50's, a famous part of the "Southern Mines," of the long ago. Of the many, many mining camps that once filled the canyon with a life and a history that can never again be duplicated, there now remain but an old chimney, or a broken wall to again recall tile once busy places of these now almost forgotten camps. And even the old chimneys and the broken walls have disappeared from many of them, and their places have been blotted off the face of the canyon forever.
      Such is the life of a mining camp.
      The piles of rocks so carefully "corded up" upon the liars and Hats, like so much wood, mutely tell us where once the busy miners "sluiced" away the rich gravel of these "placers." On both sides of the river are to be seen the old, abandoned water ditches, and here and there are old trails over which the light-hearted men of the other days tramped to or from their camps. And here are many caved-in tunnels, and they come quite often as the canyon deepens, which mutely tell of blasted hopes or fondest realizations. And there are many old mills. and dams. and mines once abandoned now preparing to be worked again with modern methods.
      First we come to the Exchequer Mine, some miles above Merced Falls. This is a low-grade mine, with ore enough in sight, to run for many years. The canyon is narrow here and the outcroppings of the ledge can be seen upon both sides of the gorge. The ledge is from five to sixty feet wide with an average value of about $9 to the ton. A 50-foot concrete dam is being built here to furnish electric power for the 100-stamp mill to be build here, as well as for other mines in the neighborhood. These immense ore bodies can, it is claimed, be worked at $1 per ton.
      There is a station here.

At Bagby (Benton Mills)
      A few miles further up at Bagby (Benton Mills) is a small mill in operation, the ore being brought down from the mountain side in wagons. It has but five stamps, lint it shows you how tile ore is crushed to a powder, and the gold separated therefrom. Here, too, is a small power plant, the Pelton wheels being turned by (lie water from the 35-foot dam here, the "juice" being carried up to Mt. Bullion and Mariposa, a dozen or more miles away, to run other mills and light the towns.
      In the olden days this place was known as the Benton Mills, and sometimes as "Hell's Hollow." It was a part of the old Fremont Grant, once owned by Gen. Fremont, the "Pathfinder," and he named these mills in honor of


STEEL BRIDGE OVER MERCED, BELOW BAGBY
On Line Yosemite Valley R. R.

his wife, Jesse Benton Fremont. In the early days there was a hundred stamp mill here and another dam further up stream. The ore was brought down from the mines above on a tramway.
      'Tis a pity that the pretty name has been changed, for around the old Benton Mills and Dam have clustered much of the romance and history of the early days of this State and the West. It should be restored. The pioneers and Native Sons of this county and State should try and have the historic name restored. It is not yet too late, for its modern name is yet scarcely ten years of age, while its historic and rightful name dates almost from the discovery of gold in this State.

It was Lonely Then
      "In Hell's Hollow, three miles below Pine Tree, stands the ruins of an old mill. The framework of what was once, a great flume leads up a half a mile to some jutting timbers, all that remains of the once splendid Benton Mills Dam. On the cliffs above the mill stands the old boarding house, still in fair condition. It is a lonely place six miles from any human habitation, separated from the world by mountain walls. On a tiny raft in the river is a chance for amusement," wrote a college girl in 1895.
      "Now boats replace that raft, a locomotive's whistle awakens echoes in Hell's Hollow, and soon the long trains tilled with sightseers will rush through the canyon," wrote the same young lady at a more recent date. There is a hotel here now and a railroad station, and the great dam backs the water up to Solomon's Gulch, two miles further up. Out of the latter there was taken about two million dollars in gold dust, hence the name.
      A short distance above here the granite walls come down to meet the waters of the dam. It is about a half mile around this crescent-shaped bit of roadbed. This was one of the hardest pieces of work upon the line. The walls are so steep here that the men had to lie let down from far above by ropes to survey and blast out the grade. It looks quite tame now.

At the Broadheads
      Six miles further up we cross the great steel bridge over North Fork and view for a moment the wild and rugged Yosemite-like gorge before us, the Broadheads. Here is real grandeur upon a Yosemite scale, though the valley is yet 30 miles off to the east.
      Upon the opposite side of the gorge, hundreds of feet above the river, is a great overhanging rock, an almost exact counterpart of the famous Overhanging Rock of Glacier Point, Yosemite. Did Nature in the long ages of the past, when the canyon was young and the Yosemite in process of making, chisel out this rock here to remind the returning Yosemite visitors of these late; times, of


IN THE DEPTHS OF THE CANYON
(At The Broadheads)
On Line Y. V. R. R.The Canyon Route

that other rock at Glacier Point? Be that as it may the duplicate is here.
      Here, too, are flinty, upright rocks age-worn and beautifully colored, that may well be called the

Sentinels of the Canyon
the guardians of its mysteries, whose heights are reflected in the shadowy depths of the river below for a great natural dam is here (to be used shortly for a big electric plant) and the waters have been stilled for some distance up stream. But resent this they do, and how they roar, how they rush by, impatient at being thus stopped after their thrilling descent over the ramparts of Yo-
       Interesting is the canyon here.

The Mt. King Mine
       In a few moments our train is at the Mt. King Mine, the track being hut a few feet from the 14-stamp mill. Water-power is used here. If the train stops here a few moments be sure and get off and take a look at a real quartz mill at work. To be sure it is only a small mill, but later on a great mill is going up at this point, for this is one of the newly-discovered mines of these parts, and one of the richest.
       For fifty years prospectors passed to and fro over the trail, across the ledge, far up the mountain side, its wealth unknown to them, though in plain sight, for the sides of the mountain is covered with rich float rock, too conspicuous, they thought, to be good, and so they passed it by. But it remained for two prospectors, F. X. Egenhoff and Geo. Merritt, to discover the mine on August 4, 1897. They sold it to the present company, supposed to be Standard Oil people. A balance gravity tramway brings the ore down from the mine 1250 feet above.
       It is one of the most valuable properties of the "Omparisa Gold Mining Co."

At El Portal The "Gateway"

       It is about 20 miles from the Mt. King Mine to the terminus at El Portal, the "Gateway," and there is not an uninteresting mile between these points.
       A more suitable location for the terminus of the Yosemite Valley Railroad than El Portal would be hard to find. Well has it been named, the "Gateway" to Yosemite. It is Nature's entrance to the great wonders now so close. Here is a level section of the canyon of one hundred or more acres. It is mild, and quiet and peaceful here. Great oak trees are on all sides and across the river is to be seen the fringe of the sugar and yellow pine forests. Within a few hundred feet is Crane Creek, a living mountain stream, cool, refreshing and full of trout. This will be the water supply for El Portal.
       Plans for a tourist hotel are now being made. Prior to its completion a first-class camp will be used for the tourists.
       Here, too, is the headquarters of the Yosemite Transportation Co., of which D. K. Stoddard is Supt. Mr. Stoddard is a veteran in the Yosemite tourist business. He is now prepared to handle all the business than call be cared for in the valley. He can, if called upon, carry 250 people each way daily, in fact, more.


MILL OF THE MT. KING MINE
On Line Y V. R. R. The Canyon Route

       El Portal is 1800 feet above sea and about a mile west of the Yosemite National Park.

The Boulevard
       Between El Portal and the Cascade Fall a live mile wagon road has been completed, the work being done by the railroad company. It connects at the latter place with the Coulterville-Yosemite road. It is interesting to here note that the first and the last Yosemite roads meet here the Coulterville being the first to invade its wonders and this boulevard the last.
       It will require only about three hours to make this part of the trip. No doubt but that many parties will take a half day for it, for this part of the road is of intense interest - eight miles of it is in the real Yosemite - from the Cascades up to the hotel, and the boulevard is a fitting introduction to the greater wonders of the valley.        It were useless to attempt to describe this part of the trip - it is like the Yosemite, it must be seen. Like the railroad it follows close to the river banks.
       To an ordinary person it looked impossible to build a wagon road here, but is was done in a very short period of time, at a total cost of about $12,000 per mile. The work was commenced in the early part of February of this year and teams were going over it on the 29th of April. Nearly a thousand men were employed upon it.
       There are great bowlders here as large as two-story buildings that had to be blasted out to make room for the grade, and between two of them, above the zigzags, a real tunnel has been blasted, through which the coaches will go. And across the tops of these two great rocks is another one still larger. And on all sides are the forest trees that vie with their kind upon the great walls above. The walls here rise up 2,000 or more feet, and at places the view, of its kind, is not excelled even by the Yosemite.
      From the Cascades up to the Bridal Veil Meadows, where the first general view of the Yosemite is had, there is a subdued calm, a sense of the restful, in strong contrast to the wild and thrilling scenery along the boulevard. Nature has thus arranged it, and it could not be better.
       But here we are at the

Bridal Veil Meadows
where we get our First general view of Yosemite. Off to the right, a half mile away, is the beautiful, ever-changing fall of the Bridal Veil, known to the simple Indians as Pohono, the Spirit of the Evil Wind. To the left, a mile or more away, rises that great shaft of granite, El Capitan, and its counterpart is not elsewhere upon earth. Its proud crest rises 3,300 feet above the river, and the side now presented to us is said to lean toward us 60 or more feet. In the distance and to the right we catch a glimpse of "Watch tower of the Yosemite," the Sentinel, while 8 miles or more to the east we see Cloud's Rest, now bright and glistening. But we must not tarry too long here, for it is but the introduction. Within an hour we are. at the end of our journey, and amid the roaring of the falls of the valley and (lie gentle ripping of the Merced, we will pass our First night amid wonders the like of which are not found elsewhere upon earth.


THE ROAD TUNNEL UNDER THE ROCKS
Scene on El Portal - Cascade Road

       And we are not tired, thanks to the closer railway connections. As to the evening tomorrow - today is the only time we know anything about.

The Equipment is Good
       The Yosemite Valley Railroad's First rails were laid at Merced on the morning of Sept. 27, 1905, and on Thursday, April 25th, of this year the last rails were laid at El Portal, the terminus. The officers of the company are as follows Frank G. Drum, president; N. D. Rideout, Harry L. Tevis, Wm. H. Crocker, Henry T. Scott, all of San Francisco, and Thomas Prather and W. W. Garthwaite of Oakland, directors. 0. W. Lehmer is General Supt. and C. H. Wright, agent at Merced, the latter place being the general offices of the company.
       Regular service will commence of May 15th of this year and at an early date there will be two trains daily. One will leave Merced at an early hour and will be made up of sleepers switched from the night trains of the Southern Pacific and Santa Fe. This train will reach El Portal in time for breakfast and then on to the Valley on stages. The other train will leave Merced at 2 o'clock in the afternoon and will include in its equipment elegant day coaches and an observation car. This train will reach the terminus about 6 o'clock that evening.
       A telephone and telegraph line is now being built along the route by the Sunset people and it will be completed to the Yosemite by the first of July of this year.
       The road was thus built in a record - breaking time, the construction being in charge of Jas. H. O'Brien, ever clever, and pleasant, the well-known contractor of San Francisco.
       The work is a credit to the men who have faith in the future of Yosemite. It is well founded, and their investment will not only be a paying one, but, too, a blessing to the untold multitudes to whom a visit to Yosemite is now a possibility, *without undergoing the necessary discomforts of the long stage trips of the heretofore, of the best and interesting though they were. They were all right in their day, but the time we are now in is today, and this is the time of the Yosemite Valley Railroad.
       When the airship comes there will then be an easier way of getting here.
       As we go to press we learn that W. M. Sell, of the Ahwahnee Hotel, Raymond - Yosemite route, will have charge of the hotel and camp here. This is the best of news for the Yosemite visitors, for it assures them an ideal camp and later on, a hotel. Under Mr. Sell's management, assisted by Mrs. Sell, El Portal will be as popular in the future as Ahwahnee has been in the past.