1907
THE PACIFIC MONTHLY
Sunset Magazine

By Rail to the Yosemite

By Lanier Bartlet
Illustrated from Photographs by The Hallet-Taylor Co.

HERE are those who will regret shortening of the trip into the Yosemite Valley by the opening of the new Yosemite Valley Railroad; but the majority of travelers probably will welcome, for practical reasons, the reduction of traveling time and more direct entrance made possible by the new route, which has just inaugurated its first season's service. For there are many of us who cherished the long, old style ride into the heart of nature, through the real Bret Harte country, behind a genuine Sierran stage driver of the old school, in the cool shade of groves of majestic trees. We would wish always to ride the round trip behind the inspiring six horse relays, swinging around the peaks and down the steep slopes of the Sierras in the gallant style of fifty years ago, but we have had to yield at last to a modification of the old regime by the more modem idea of tourist transportation.

XXXXThe great tide of travel that now sets toward that magnificent scenic wonder, the Yosemite Valley, every Summer will, of course, be handled more expeditiously under the new order of things, and the comforts and necessities of those who suffer fatigue from so long a drive, or who can ill spare the time spent on the stage journey, will be better served by the rail route.

XXXX However, through a fortunate and judicious arrangement, the good old style stage coach has not been abolished from the famous Raymond-Wawona turnpike. Instead, it has been retained to play a very pretty part in Yosemite transportation; wherefore let the real lover of Sierran travel rejoice. The traveler who is pressed for time, but who regrets entirely missing the dash through the woods and down the slopes, may now proceed to the edge of the valley by rail, and go out the other way, via Glacier Point and the Mariposa Big Trees, over the beautiful Wawona stage road, or vice versa. All the famous stage route station names, such as "Grub Gulch," "Gold Hill," "Ahwahnee," and "Wawona" may still sound in the tourist's ears, even though he makes his entrance to the valley over the matter-of-fact steel rails; and in the lovely vale of Wawona he may still be greeted by those old pioneers of the Yosemite stage travel, the Washburn brothers, or rather by two of them; one, Henry Washburn, a big hearted, nature loving man, and much loved by men, having three years ago passed over the Great Divide. If you are going rail one way and stage the other, take my word for it and enter the valley by stage so that your first view may be the sublime one from Inspiration Point.

XXXXThe Yosemite Valley Railroad strikes for the National Park line from Merced. It is a standard gauge steam road of most modern construction, with seventy pound steel rails, laid on dustless rock ballast, and steel bridges. The mountain terminus is five miles from the famous Cascades on the floor of the Yosemite Valley and twelve miles from the celebrated Sentinel Hotel and the village of Yosemite, located at the foot of the beautiful Yosemite Fall the longest natural waterfall in the world. A splendid new turn pike has been built from the terminus into the valley proper. Roomy observation cars are to be the feature of each train, and it is expected that the service will be maintained the year round, an impossible thing by the all stage route, on account of the heavy snows of the Winter. At its park line terminus the railroad company is erecting a comfortable tourist hotel. This hotel is in addition to the popular Sentinel Hotel, and the magnificent Frank A. Miller Hotel which is to be built at Yosemite next year after a style of architecture that will accord with the rugged environment. Still another new house of public entertainment is to be erected on that commanding eminence, Glacier Point.

XXXXSo much for the practicalities of the new passenger route. As to its scenic attractions, they are so manifold and diverse as to be beyond any detailed description. From Merced Falls to the park line, a distance of sixty magnificent miles, the rails follow the dashing Merced River, the stream which tumbles headlong into the Yosemite Valley from the highest Sierras over roaring falls, winds the full length of the valley through many a glorious trout pool, and finally cascades its checkered way out at the lower end to slake the tremendous thirst of the vast plains far, far below. Up its matchless canon this new trail toils, unfolding moment by moment one of the most picturesque series of mountain pictures that nature has fashioned in her whole wide world. What this trip would be in Winter, when the snow has glorified every object, may be only suggested.

XXXXThis little piece of railroad is sure to take a leading place among the few famous scenic railways of the world. From the observation cars every change of scenery may be taken advantage of by the passenger in Summer without exposure to the dust and the rays of the California sun.

XXXXAnd even we of the old fashioned, stage coach loving minority need not feel entirely bereft of the Bret Harte effects of early days as we journey in by the new way, for the last twelve miles is still by stage, and probably it will be always so, for the Government frowns upon railway projects that would invade the actual valley. The great majority, too, will approve of this remnant of the old manner of passenger transportation in the Sierras, for it will add to the in going journey just a dash of the "rough-and-ready" without stealing an important amount of time. This twelve miles of new turnpike leads from the terminus to the meadows of the valley through a precipitous and picturesque portion of the Canon of the Merced.

XXXXIn the past almost all travelers have tried to see the Yosemite Valley in too short a space of time; and it is to be hoped that the new route, on account of its shortening of time of actual travel in and out, will encourage every visitor to add at least two days to the stay that has been before customary. A week is far short of sufficient time for a comprehension of the full beauty and grandeur of the Yosemite. At the end of that time you will just begin to feel its spell, just begin to feel it mastering you, and you will leave unsatisfied, with a realization that its sublimity and its mystery; its smallest prettinesses, seen where fragrant, woodsy flowers bloom beside frolicking streamlets, and its tremendous grandeurs, that touch the sky, will never cease calling to you from your heart of hearts to return and worship Nature again without unseemly haste, in Nature's most sacred temple.

XXXXWho can learn in a day, or two, or three (as many try to do) the true beauty and majesty and meaning of such Indian named, Indian loved immortals of the Yosemite as overpowering Tutoekanula, which we call El Capitan, the noble guardian of it all, forever headed into Elowin, the promised land; white faced, majestic Tissaack, the half dome, Goddess of the Valley, beloved of the mighty Tutoekanula, her back against the east, whence she hands down the light of every dawn and defies night's obliteration; Pohono, Spirit of the Evil Wind, haunted by lost maidens the fall that is called the Bridal Veil, she that is rainbow bedecked and wanton, yielding to every passing breeze; Loya, the grim Sentinel; Wahwholena, the Three Graces; Posenah Chukka, now the Cathedral Spires; Toeoyae, the North Dome Pompompassus, the falling rocks, called in the English tongue the Three Brothers; Hunto, the Watching Eye; Cholack, the beautiful Yosemite Falls, at whose base stood the original village of Ahwahnechees; Ahweiyah, lovely Sleeping Water, called by us Mirror Lake, on the banks of which the young Ahwahnee brave fought that memorable fight with the giant grizzly bear which gave the new name, "Yo Semite," to his tribe; and the Falls of Illilouette, the Rushing Water; Piwaack, Cataract of Diamonds, that we call Vernal; and Yowiye, Twisting Water, being the Foaming Fall? Where is there a corner of the earth wherein travelers may originate that has not heard these wondrous names spoken? And yet, to many visitors of the Yosemite they remain forever little more than names and a memory of one marvelous glance of the eye over the gorge, for these things must be approached one by one and loved through intimacy of acquaintance, if you would understand the full possibilities of the whole. Full well did the dwellers in Ahwahnee, the keepers of the "Deep Grassy Valley," know their matchless home and love it; and in mighty love and inborn understanding did they name its impressive features, poetically and well. But their love and understanding of it all were bred slowly, generation upon generation, until at last at last, not at first were the valley's very secrets born with the babes of the Ahwahnechees, and they gave the names and told the stories they had heard unconsciously in their mothers' bodies. And centuries before them - Oh, vast centuries before! the whole great thing was fashioned out by a force so vast, so scornful of time, so sure of its purpose and its inevitable fulfillment that an age was not too long for the work it had to do was not too long for the accomplishment of the masterpiece that was to be a masterpiece forever, or so long as the world is without end. Can you, who have rushed into this sublimity by the all rail route, with your mind full of yourself and other thoughts as foreign to the majesties, the beauties, the mysteries of the Deep Grassy Valley, the gorge of the Great Grizzly Bear, you who have rushed into the very footprints of that overwhelming force hope to take unto your soul the meaning of the Yosemite in a day, or two, or three?

XXXXThe life of modern man. too, as he leads it in the depths of the great chasm, has its own peculiar charm and interest, in addition to the magnificence of Nature. The quaint bit of a village of Yosemite, spread along the limpid, trout loved, flower bordered Merced, is one of the distinct features of the trip that will linger ever in the memory. It is one of the most picturesque communities in America, and the meadow location with its surroundings of mountain grandeur brings strikingly to mind pictures of hamlets tucked away in the Swiss Alps. The homelike hotel with its feet almost in the river and the Yosemite Falls swishing day and night immediately behind it; the straggling street shaded by forest trees, with an occasional cowboy or Indian jogging down its length; the quaint studios of artists and photographers scattered along the stream, making wandering through the easy going little capital of Wonderland a delightful manner of passing away pine scented Summer days.

XXXXThis famous Mariposa Grove is a feature of the outward bound stage trip via Glacier Point and Wawona, which alone should make the ride over the old route worth while, and without question the traveler should take a stop over at Wawona in order to spend sufficient time among these magnificent trees to understand them. Or, if he does not wish to make the entire return trip by stage, he may proceed from Yosemite to the Big Trees via Glacier Point and Wawona, spend such time as he may desire at the latter resort and return to the railroad terminus by way of the world renowned Inspiration Point, from which celebrated vantage spot the finest single view of the valley is to be had. These excursions will give the tourist an idea of the old stage route and its charm, and still be economical in time, money and fatigue.


Illustrations and Photographs

  • The Dome From Rocky Point
  • Wawona Hotel
  • From Glacier Point, Yosemite Valley
  • From Inspiration Point, Yosemite Valley
  • The Merced River, Yosemite Valley
  • Map - Rail Route to Yosemite
  • Getting Ready for the Evening Camp-Fire at Camp Yosemite
  • Monarchs of the Forest, Mariposa Grove
  • From the Meadow; Half Dome
  • Bridal Veil Falls, From Wawona Turnpike