Out West
March 1914
Vol. 7, No. 3.
Pages 132-147

IMPRESSIONS of A VISIT
TO YOSEMITE

By L. M. Wetyl


zzzzTo one who has never visited the Yosemite Valley, Bridal Veil Falls, El Capitan, The Three Brothers, Cathedral Spires, Cathedral Rocks, Yosemite Falls, North Dome, Half Dome, Vernal Falls, Nevada Falls, Glacier Point, Sentinel Dome, Liberty Cap, Mirror Lake, Royal Arches, Happy Isles, etc., are little more than a confused jumble of names.

zzzz He may have read descriptions of its scenery, received postcard views from visiting friends, heard lecturers descant upon its glories, and may have gazed enraptured upon its wonders as they were flashed upon a screen, but there is little coherency to his impressions of the Valley as a whole, and only a few isolated objects stand out in his mind with anything like distinctness. Yet as soon as the vision is his, he bursts into rhapsodies and joins the innumerable throng who have attempted to describe its indescribable charm and grandeur. Who that has ever looked upon majestic El Capitan and unforgetable Half Dome can remain mute upon the subject?

It was my great pleasure and privilege to make a trip to the Yosemite in the summer of 1913 with a friend, and now every name not only calls up its own image, but a train of associations as well. And as again I live over every detail of my visit to this Wonderland of Nature and thrill anew to the feelings inspired by the different scenes, I desire that others enjoy it with me.

zzzzWhat if the weather man does add a little extra fuel to his furnace while we are at Merced, it is not long after the train really starts until the heat is lost sight of in the witchery of the scene through which we are passing. To our right as the road winds in and out clinging to the mountain-side is the beautiful, fascinating, changeful Merced River. So smooth and placid it is in some places we can scarce detect a ripple. When thus seen, one would imagine it never has ought else to do than take its ease, as it basks in the smile of the brilliant sun and sends back a reflection of the willows that line its banks.

A short distance away, however, all is changed. Above the noise of the train can be heard the roar of the water as it comes dashing, splashing, flashing, boiling, seething, leaping, plunging, rushing, and tumbling, over, around and between the rocks that would obstruct its progress. It is difficult to realize that this is the same stream which appeared so lazy and languid in another part of its course. Paradoxical, indeed, does it seem that a stream apparently so sluggish in its movements at times can keep pace with itself as it speeds on with such wild tumult in the dance of its roaring cascades.

zzzzThe scene along its banks have also changed. Massive boulders are scattered here and there interspersed with smaller ones, many beautifully colored, as are also some of the stratified rocks through which the river has cut its way. Beyond are the mountains. Now they rise almost abruptly from the stream, stony and bare; again they slope gently away with a thick growth of trees and, chaparral to their summits, while yet again there is a compromise, and gray masses of stone life their heads sufficiently high to add to the attractiveness of the color scheme. And ever can be seen the blue haze hanging over the distant landscape. Certainly the engineer who located the Yosemite Valley Railroad had an eye for the picturesque and beautiful.

zzzzAnd what a gigantic task was its construction! It is only seventy-eight miles in length, but at least two-thirds of the roadbed was blasted out of the solid rock which forms the mountainous walls of the Merced River Canyon, the cost running as high as $100,000 per mile. Its terminus is El Portal, and no matter how hot, tired and dusty a traveler may be when he alights, the rustic depot building claims more than a passing glance before he proceeds to the hotel.

The latter Del Portal a rambling, commodious building in perfect harmony with its surroundings. Wide verandas encircle it on three .sides, inviting one to linger out-of-doors and enjoy the mountain breeze redolent with the spicy odor of the pines. Nor is he disappointed when he goes within, for in the finishing and furnishing of the interior the comfort and convenience of the guests were steadily kept in view. "As should be in this perfect and invigorating climate, every room is an outside room with canyon-side and river in delightful vistas. There is a beautiful ladies parlor exquisitely furnished and adjoining the main lobby that is appropriately set about with Indian rugs and baskets and these, together with the cosy club room, are blessed with great fireplaces, where huge logs roar merrily upon occasion. The club room lies along the carpeted hall near the buffet and barber shop. The sparkling water that is piped to every room comes from a spring on the-mountain. The fruits and table vegetables are fresh from a garden that holds no less a charm in its loveliness than in its products;" while the genial host, Mr. F. A. Cline, and his retinue of faithful assistants, are so cordial one feels as if visiting friends who are entertaining a large house-party, rather than putting up. at a public hotel. No wonder people love to loiter here on their way either to or from the Valley. It is an ideal spot where tired mind and tired body are rejuvenated and forms a center from which divers pleasure excursions may be made as well.

zzzzBut delightful as it is to linger here, the call of the Yosemite cannot be resisted, so, with eager anticipations, we leave on the morning stage.

The scenery along the way is a duplication of that through which we have passed in the railroad part of oui journey except that the farther we penetrate into the canyon the grander and more rugged it becomes. The floor of the Valley, which at El Portal is 2000 feet, rises to 4000 feet and the size of the boulders in

  • Several page of text about
  • Yosemite Valley and Points of Interest

zzzzAs the road is down grade all the way we reach El Portal in much less time than it took to make the trip into the Valley, although our driver made a detour from the regular route to show us the largest pine tree in the region. From Del Portal, where we are privileged to remain a few days, we have several pleasant excursions, one of them being to Foresta. The automobile road is just about completed, and after waiting in vain a couple of days for the new automobiles to arrive, we make the trip in one that has done service as a truck. There are eight in the party, and we have a jolly and exhilarating ride. All are delighted with the spot selected for the Summer Assembly, and profoundly hope we may at least visit, if not own a home of our own, in this ideal location. I will not attempt, however, to depict its beauties, objects and attractions, as this has been done by the Editor in "A Summer Home on Yosemite's Rim."

zzzzThe most thrilling adventure of our sojourn was our visit to the logging camp of the Yosemite Lumber Company. This is located on a mountain-top opposite Hotel Del Portal, and is reached by an incline railway 7,800 feet in length, the steepest portion being a 77 per cent grade, but to one going up for the first time the track seems in places to be almost perpendicular. The cars used are built like an ordinary flat-car, except that a strong bulk-head is erected at one end. A loaded car (which is let down as an empty is hauled up) weighs from thirty to forty tons, hence the cable operating them must be of extraordinary strength and durability. The one used is an inch and a half in diameter, and composed of six strands of nineteen wires each, with a steel heart half an inch in diameter.

zzzzThe trees are being felled four or five miles back from the top of the incline, and while waiting for a train to take us out, we have an opportunity to inspect the machinery that operates it. We also gain from this elevation some excellent views of this portion of the Merced River Canyon. Across from us, on the other rim, is the beautifully rounded mountain-top where Foresta is situated, the buildings, orchards and cultivated fields of the farm near its base contrasting with the native forests that cover its summit. The serpentine course of the automobile road as it climbs higher and higher; other mountain crests to the right and left, the ridges leading up to them jutting out into the Valley, catch- ing the sunlight and throwing back to us beautiful shades of reds and browns, while their shadows emphasize the som- berness of the dark green canyons that intervene; the waters of the river gleam- ing here and there like patches of snow between its darker banks and the im- pediments that have lashed it into foam; the picturesque location of the hotel, with the stage road leading up to it; and the cottages that form the village , of El Portal,-all have their place in the scene.

zzzz It is to Mr. Fenwick, the company's manager, that we are indebted for per- mission to make this trip, and he kindly explains to us the workings of the donkey engines and pulleys in bringing down or hauling up the giant tree-trunks. It is also interesting to watch the hoisting and loading of these massive logs onto the cars where they remain until they reach the milling plant at Merced Falls. Quite a contrast between the present process of logging and the old-time method with oxen and high-wheeled carts. The sensation of making an ascent of a mile and a half 'n eight minutes is unique, but the most thrilling moment of our novel experience is just as we go over the brow of the hill on our downward journey.

zzzz We are delighted on our return to the hotel to find there friends we had met at Camp Curry, who were enroute for their homes. They laugh heartily at our unkept appearance, but such a jaunt as we have had, riding on an engine, and sitting on or leaning over pitchy logs of pine, fir and cedar that have had much of the bark knocked off, does not tend to neatness of apparel, and of course our hair is "flying in every direction."

zzzz Reluctantly the next morning we say good-bye to Mr. Cline, his wife and little daughter, who have so hospitably entertained us, but are glad to accompany our other friends and enjoy with them the delightful scenery on the return journey to Merced.